Cropped T with Flutter Sleeves

I made this ages ago, but between Pinewoods and madly sewing for the Nahant Vintage Dance Weekend (if you follow me on Instagram, you’ll have seen some sneak peeks of those costumes in the past few days) I haven’t had a minute to post about it. And it’ll be a quick minute!

This started out based on the Knit Sweetheart T in Gertie Sews Vintage Casual, but I made a bunch of changes. What I’m most happy with is the fit! I’m so glad I lowered the pleats in the center bust–it looks much better than my first attempt.

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Washed-out photo so you can see those pleats.

So here’s what I changed:

  • Lowered the front neckline and pleats
  • Narrowed the shoulders
  • Cropped it just above the natural waist and finished the hem with a wide band (looks much cleaner than turning under for me since I can’t do stretch stitches, coverstitch, or twin needle finishes)
  • Replaced the sleeves with flutter sleeves (following this tutorial); flutter sleeves are hemmed with the narrow hem on my serger

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I think for the next one I will raise the neckline and lower the waist by just a smidge (1/4 inch or so), but overall I’m very pleased with how this came out and think it’s quite flattering. I’d like to do a similar one with long sleeves and a higher neckline in a sweater knit for the fall. (I believe the fabric for this was interlock? I don’t remember, sorry! It’s sort of a midweight knit with decent body, as you can see in the sleeves.)

Speaking of the seasons, here’s my updated spring/summer capsule wardrobe. There’s one item I’ve completed but might not blog about (the gauze skirt…it’s just not that interesting and didn’t turn out great) and two I think I’ll move to the fall plan (jean jacket and jersey maxi skirt). Of course, since we’re hitting 90 degrees, I’m fantasizing about what I want to make in tweed and corduroy once I finish this latest costuming push….

Spring/Summer Capsule Wardrobe

Dresses

  1. Gray floral Lady Skater
  2. Green dress (purchased)
  3. Cream floral Lady Skater
  4. Calico Giselle
  5. Black/gray calico Simplicity 1080 View A

Skirts

  1. Jersey maxi skirt (McCall’s 6608 View D) in black–MOVE TO FALL
  2. Black gauze petticoat skirt with ruffle (unblogged, but made)
  3. White petticoat skirt
  4. Brown midi petticoat skirt
  5. Jean Hollyburn
  6. Nevermore skirt

Tops

  1. Wrap top (Butterick 6285)
  2. Cropped black T-shirt
  3. Gray rose peasant top
  4. Black Weekender tunic

Outerwear

  1. Jean jacket (Simplicity 8020 View A)–MOVE TO FALL
  2. Army green jacket (purchased)
  3. Green spencer
  4. Gray jersey cardigan (purchased)
  5. Aurelia cardigan?

White Petticoat Skirt

Another project done! I actually had a white petticoat skirt I made a couple of years ago, but there were some issues with it so it was axed in the great purge. This is the replacement!

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As with most of my (non-historical) petticoat skirts, this is a half circle skirt with a ruffle. I had a lot of extra fabric, so I added a second ruffle above the bottom one. Waistband is just elastic. Fabric is white cotton lawn.

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The neat thing on this one is that I hemmed the ruffles with a narrow hem on my serger. Takes forever, but it looks so good! I almost didn’t add lace to the bottom because I liked how clean it looked. But of course in the end I couldn’t resist.

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Check out my awesome “vintage” 1980s Gunne Sax dress, haha.

Spring/Summer Capsule Wardrobe

Dresses

  1. Gray floral Lady Skater
  2. Green dress (purchased)
  3. Cream floral Lady Skater
  4. Calico Giselle
  5. Calico Simplicity 1080 View A (I’m not 100% sure this pattern will work for me, but…I’m just dying to try it!)

Skirts

  1. Jersey maxi skirt (McCall’s 6608 View D) in black
  2. Gauze maxi skirt with ruffle (rework gauze circle skirt for this)
  3. White petticoat skirt
  4. Brown midi petticoat skirt
  5. Jean Hollyburn
  6. Nevermore skirt

Tops

  1. Wrap top (Butterick 6285)
  2. Cropped black T-shirt
  3. Gray rose peasant top
  4. Black Weekender tunic

Outerwear

  1. Jean jacket (Simplicity 8020 View A)
  2. Army green jacket (purchased)
  3. Green spencer
  4. Gray jersey cardigan (purchased)
  5. Aurelia cardigan?

Red Rose Wrap Top

As soon as I saw this pattern, Butterick 6285, announced, I was dying to make the wrap top. And now I finally have!

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I highly recommend checking out Gertie’s sewalong posts in addition to the instructions. She tells you how to finish the sleeves by machine, plus I find her explanations much easier to follow. (I admit, I didn’t know what “break your stitching” meant, so her note was really helpful!)

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Knowing this is a wrap top made of stretchy knit, I valiantly sewed a straight size (none of my usual adjustments for my waist being a size larger than my bust) according to my upper bust measurement (to account for my narrow shoulders). It ended up a bit small in the torso (very unusual for a Butterick pattern!), but I think it still looks great. Except, um, the sleeves a really tight. I’ve never had that problem before, so I’m wondering if maybe my fabric wasn’t stretchy enough? Or maybe I just do need to make it a size larger.

The other slightly off thing is that the main body of the top ends right at the bottom of my rib cage. That’s an awfully short crop top! Unfortunately, the pattern doesn’t include any lengthen/shorten lines, so I’m not sure how to fix that. But fortunately, this particular fabric is really stable and the ties are quite wide, so I can just wrap them in the right place to get it down to my natural waist. That said, this is the reason that if I make this again, I might only do so if I’m planing to layer it over dresses.

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I also sewed this entirely on my regular machine using a straight stitch, per the instructions. It worked out perfectly fine, but I think next time I’d serge it so the seams are a bit less bulky (not that it’s at all noticeable, I think). Fabric is Red Rose Floral Bouquets on Black Cotton Spandex Knit Fabric from Girl Charlee and it’s so soft and gorgeous. It’s definitely a medium weight, and pretty easy to handle.

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Anyway, it was quick to make and cute, so I’m pretty happy!

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Spring/Summer Capsule Wardrobe

Dresses

  1. Gray floral Lady Skater
  2. Green dress (purchased)
  3. Cream floral Lady Skater (this is a holdover from fall/winter that didn’t end up getting made then)
  4. Calico Giselle
  5. Calico Simplicity 1080 View A (I’m not 100% sure this pattern will work for me, but…I’m just dying to try it!)

Skirts

  1. Jersey maxi skirt (McCall’s 6608 View D) in black
  2. Gauze maxi skirt with ruffle (rework gauze circle skirt for this)
  3. White petticoat skirt
  4. Brown midi petticoat skirt
  5. Jean Hollyburn
  6. Nevermore skirt

Tops

  1. Wrap top (Butterick 6285)
  2. Cropped black T-shirt
  3. Gray rose peasant top
  4. Black Weekender tunic

Outerwear

  1. Jean jacket (Simplicity 8020 View A)
  2. Army green jacket (purchased)
  3. Green spencer
  4. Gray jersey cardigan (purchased)
  5. Aurelia cardigan?

Gray Rose Peasant Top

When I ordered this fabric–Small Gray Floral on Black Cotton Spandex Blend Knit Fabric from Girl Charlee–I was planning to use it for a t-shirt. But when it arrived, it was so soft and drapey, and rather thin, that I decided to make something to take advantage of that. A peasant top!

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(Hello, kitty!)

This is based on McCall’s 5050, View A. I’ve made this pattern a couple of times before and knew that it was quite large. So since I was using a stretchy knit, I went ahead and cut out the extra small. I think I should’ve done larger sleeves so they have a bit more puff, but overall it’s certainly fine!

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I made things tougher for myself by using strips of fabric to form the elastic casings rather than folding down the neckline and folding up the sleeves, PLUS that means that you can see the inside of the fabric! Argh! But it’s still sooo comfy and cute that, um, I’m going to just pretend it’s a “design feature.”

I added some nice cotton lace around the neckline and sleeves. I reallllly wanted to use it on the hem, but I was short about 5 inches. Oh well! Narrow hem on the serger it is.

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This was sewn entirely on my serger, except for attaching the elastic casings.

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Oh, yeah, and the ribbon bow on the center front. That’s just a requirement for peasant tops, right??

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Spring/Summer Capsule Wardrobe

Dresses

  1. Gray floral Lady Skater
  2. Green dress (purchased)
  3. Cream floral Lady Skater (this is a holdover from fall/winter that didn’t end up getting made then)
  4. Calico Giselle
  5. Calico Simplicity 1080 View A (I’m not 100% sure this pattern will work for me, but…I’m just dying to try it!)

Skirts

  1. Jersey maxi skirt (McCall’s 6608 View D) in black
  2. Gauze maxi skirt with ruffle (rework gauze circle skirt for this)
  3. White petticoat skirt
  4. Brown midi petticoat skirt
  5. Jean Hollyburn
  6. Nevermore skirt

Tops

  1. Wrap top (Butterick 6285)
  2. Cropped black T-shirt
  3. Gray rose peasant top
  4. Black Weekender tunic

Outerwear

  1. Jean jacket (Simplicity 8020 View A)
  2. Army green jacket (purchased)
  3. Green spencer
  4. Gray jersey cardigan (purchased)
  5. Aurelia cardigan?

Spring/Summer 2016 Capsule Wardrobe

I’ve made my Pinterest board for my spring/summer 2016 capsule wardrobe inspiration public. It has a very much earthy/natural/dark feel, similar to last year’s (you’ll see a lot of “mori” looks, though it’s not 100% what I’m going for–I like the layers, long skirts, ruffles, and dark/earthy colors, but I prefer fitted tops/bodices and defined waistlines). Last year I found myself both staring jealously at everyone wearing maxi skirts and really enjoying layering, so I’m consciously trying to add long skirts and layers. In addition, I’ve cut some things from my wardrobe that I just didn’t love all that much and was keeping “just in case.” I’m trying instead to focus on making items I really enjoy, each on their own. So far I have yet to “run out” of clothes. 🙂

So, without further ado, here is my spring/summer 2016 capsule wardrobe plan. (Bold items are to sew. I’ve actually already completed two of them, just haven’t gotten around to blogging about them.)

Spring/Summer Capsule Wardrobe

Dresses

  1. Gray floral Lady Skater
  2. Green dress (purchased)
  3. Cream floral Lady Skater (this is a holdover from fall/winter that didn’t end up getting made then)
  4. Calico Giselle
  5. Calico Simplicity 1080 View A (I’m not 100% sure this pattern will work for me, but…I’m just dying to try it!)

Skirts

  1. Jersey maxi skirt (McCall’s 6608 View D) in black
  2. Gauze maxi skirt with ruffle (rework gauze circle skirt for this)
  3. White petticoat skirt
  4. Brown midi petticoat skirt
  5. Jean Hollyburn
  6. Nevermore skirt

Tops

  1. Wrap top (Butterick 6285)
  2. Cropped black T-shirt
  3. Another T-shirt/knit top of some kind
  4. Black Weekender tunic

Outerwear

  1. Jean jacket (Simplicity 8020 View A)
  2. Army green jacket (purchased)
  3. Green spencer
  4. Gray jersey cardigan (purchased)
  5. Aurelia cardigan?

In addition to the capsule wardrobe items above, in the next six months or so I’m also planning to sew:

  • Two costumes (one is almost done!)
  • Two ballgowns/party dresses (already planned)
  • LBD (I keep waffling on what pattern to use…)
  • A lightweight quilt for summer (this will be a new experiment for me, but I’ve been doing research and have already found the pattern and fabric I want to use)