Edwardian Chemise + Other Unmentionables

I decided that I’ll probably be going to an event next summer that would be a great excuse for making a full Edwardian daywear outfit. And since I have almost a year and I’ve been wanting to make a suit with an Eton jacket (probably in navy blue) for a while, I’m embarking on sewing the full thing from the skin out (as I have no actual Edwardian pieces at all). If I complete about one garment per month, I’ll be in good shape and shouldn’t feel too rushed.

First up: the chemise. I used the chemise in Truly Victorian’s TVE02 for this with no modifications. My decorations are pintucks, ribbon, and eyelet lace. For I think the first time in my life, I made this entirely out of materials from my stash! (Note to self: Always buy large amounts of cotton lawn when you need to restock–it will always be used!)

(Left: front. Right: back.) I appreciate that the pattern has you neatly enclose all raw edges. Though I’m guessing it assumes you’re using lace with a finished edge on both sides and since mine was not finished on one side I ended up using self-made bias tape on the armholes.

No photos of me actually wearing the chemise since it’s, um, pretty see-through.

I’ve also completed these mysterious items:

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That’s a hip pad and bust forms from TVE01. I honestly have no idea how the bust forms are supposed to be worn and the pattern gives you no clue; guess I’ll figure that out once I’ve got the corset going??

Speaking of . . . Next up is the corset! Then I’ll be doing a combination, skirt, shirt, and the jacket. And I should really decorate a nice big hat to complete the whole outfit.

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Edwardian Drawers/Slip

Just as I was thinking about making a half slip or two, someone gave me the Edwardian Underthings (#203) pattern from Folkwear and I thought, hey, why not make drawers out of slip material?? So I attempted to make drawers out of rayon bemberg.

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Turns out rayon bemberg (yes, that’s what I mean, autocorrect–stop changing it to bombers!!) is a huge pain in the ass to work with. I spent all my sewing time wishing I’d just decided to make a regular half slip (with two side seams only). But I persevered and flat felled all the seams (sloppily, ha).

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However, I looked at the placket instructions and despaired, so I just closed up the side seams, left off the waistband entirely, and finished the waist with some lingerie elastic (like in these instructions). I didn’t take any closeup photos of that because, uh, it looks awful. In my defense, it’s the first time I’ve tried that and bemberg is really slippery, AND this is what I’m using to zigzag:

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It zigzags by moving the fabric rather than the needle, so it’s really difficult to keep the fabric lined up neatly and to keep it from shifting–even when you’re not using a slippery fabric.

But this is an undergarment and I think it’ll work fine for that! Next time: Make drawers out of cotton and use rayon bemberg for simple half slips only. Lesson learned.

Meanwhile, I’ve made a few changes to my fall/winter wardrobe plan, so here’s the annotated update:

Fall/Winter Capsule Wardrobe

Dresses

  1. Gray floral Lady Skater (short sleeve)
  2. Black Weekender dress (short sleeve)
  3. Green purchased dress (short sleeve) (but I’ve hardly been wearing this at all, now that we’re in layering weather)
  4. Gray wool Giselle (3/4 sleeve) (I still like the idea, but the Lady Skaters I added below will probably be more useful, so this is getting nixed for now)
  5. Cream floral Lady Skater (elbow-length sleeve) (NEW! This might be more of a spring item, though)
  6. Black knit dress (long sleeve)
  7. Red purchased dress (long sleeve)
  8. Plaid Lady Skater (long sleeve) (NEW!)

Skirts/Pants

  1. Brown tweed Hollyburn (unfortunately, this doesn’t fit me at all anymore, so it got donated!)
  2. Black wool Walking Skirt (need to fix waistband)
  3. Corduroy Ginger
  4. Jean Hollyburn
  5. Nevermore skirt
  6. Green plaid wool skirt (need to add lining–eh…maybe, maybe not)
  7. Jeans
  8. Flannel petticoat  (NEW!)

Tops

  1. Plain black T-shirt (short sleeve)
  2. White sweetheart T-shirt (short sleeve)
  3. Gray cropped V-neck (elbow-length)
  4. Black wrap top (elbow-length)
  5. Cream turtleneck (long sleeve)
  6. Black cameo Bronte (long sleeve)
  7. Black Weekender tunic (long sleeve)

Outerwear

  1. Black corduroy blazer
  2. Pumpkin corduroy blazer
  3. Black fleece zip-up hoodie
  4. Bottle green wool sweater
  5. Black or gray wool sweater? (on second thought, I think this needs to be washable, so maybe something cotton or cotton/silk? I’m having trouble finding sweater knit that I like, so this may be something I buy even though it SHOULD be easy to sew)
  6. Heavy black wool coat

Accessories

  1. Slips
  2. Tights & socks
  3. Black boots
  4. Brown snow boots (NEW! bought these already because I’ll be in snow country soon and the black boots won’t cut it–they’re paddock boots)
  5. Brown oxfords
  6. Scarves
  7. Brown satchel
  8. Black She Who Sews Dottie bag
  9. Black leather gloves
  10. Brown leather gloves