Plaid Lady Skater

First make of 2016 (with cameo from Bailey). (I actually finished this weeks ago; just slow about blogging.) This is a long-sleeve Lady Skater in plaid. I used the long sleeves from the Lady Skater pattern with no modifications and they (fortunately, since I didn’t measure, haha) fit perfectly.
As I have in the past, I raised the waistline slightly and increased the skirt length. The two other modifications I made were adding a contrasting “belt” (shortened the bodice and put in strips of the other fabric in place of the length I removed) and POCKETS.
IMG_4098
This time, I did shaped pockets and stabilized the top pocket edge with interfacing. These are much more stable than regular in-seam pockets in a jersey skirt, which makes them more useful. To create the pocket pattern, I just examined my Hollyburn pattern–it won’t work as-is with the Lady Skater skirt, but gives you an idea of what  you need to do (draw out the pocket bag and modify the front skirt).
(Incidentally, I have an OTR knit dress with in-seam pockets that are attached at the waistline, which makes them pretty stable AND hidden. I may have to try that the on the next knit dress.)
IMG_4048
Main fabric is Brown Black Plaid Cotton Jersey Blend Knit from Girl Charlee. It’s very thin and not terribly soft (I also found that it liked to cling to itself a lot), but it’s also the only plaid jersey I’ve been able to find (and I can’t complain too much considering the price). Contrasting fabric is Black Solid Cotton Modal Spandex Ribbing Knit from Girl Charlee, and it’s soooo soft! I hope they restock it because I think it could make cozy t-shirts and/or maybe a wrap dress?
Anyway, that’s one more off the to-do list!

Fall/Winter Capsule Wardrobe

Dresses

  1. Gray floral Lady Skater (short sleeve)
  2. Black Weekender dress (short sleeve)
  3. Green purchased dress (short sleeve) (but I’ve hardly been wearing this at all, now that we’re in layering weather)
  4. Cream floral Lady Skater (elbow-length sleeve) (might be moved to spring)
  5. Black knit dress (long sleeve)
  6. Red purchased dress (long sleeve)
  7. Plaid Lady Skater (long sleeve)

Skirts/Pants

  1. Black wool Walking Skirt (need to fix waistband)
  2. Corduroy Ginger
  3. Jean Hollyburn
  4. Nevermore skirt
  5. Green plaid wool skirt (need to add lining–eh…maybe, maybe not)
  6. Jeans
  7. Flannel petticoat 

Tops

  1. Plain black T-shirt (short sleeve)
  2. White sweetheart T-shirt (short sleeve)
  3. Gray cropped V-neck (elbow-length)
  4. Black wrap top (elbow-length)
  5. Cream turtleneck (long sleeve)
  6. Black cameo Bronte (long sleeve)
  7. Black Weekender tunic (long sleeve)

Outerwear

  1. Black corduroy blazer
  2. Pumpkin corduroy blazer
  3. Black fleece zip-up hoodie
  4. Bottle green wool sweater
  5. Black or gray wool sweater? (I did buy one recently, but it doesn’t fit very well so I’m considering returning it. Still haven’t found any good sweater knit to make my own.)
  6. Heavy black wool coat

Accessories

  1. Slips
  2. Tights & socks
  3. Black boots
  4. Brown snow boots
  5. Brown oxfords
  6. Scarves
  7. Brown satchel
  8. Black She Who Sews Dottie bag
  9. Black leather gloves
  10. Brown leather gloves

Lady Skater/Simplicity 1699 Frankendress

This dress combines the bodice, skirt, and sleeves of the Lady Skater dress with the neckline and collar of Simplicity 1699.

collar

But then I swapped in an exposed zip for the lapped zip.

zipper

And added a sweet patch pocket.

pocket

Main dress fabric is an organic cotton interlock. Collar and pocket are a woven cotton I bought ages ago (pretty sure from fabric.com, but a quick search isn’t yielding the name).

full-wearing

This dress is a bit shorter than I usually like (poor cutting layout on my part), but I plan to wear it layered over a midi-length skirt anyway. I also accidentally shortened the bodice too much–long story short, I failed to take into account the fact that the Simplicity pattern’s seam allowance was much bigger than the Lady Skater’s. Oh, well. I just need a wide belt to cover that up, haha.

One more item down!

Spring/Summer Capsule Wardrobe Sewing Queue

Skirts

  1. MAKE: Knee-length Hollyburn in black cotton poplin; white lining with white eyelet ruffle (longer than overskirt); contour waistband; elastic in back of waistband
  2. DONE: Maxi petticoat skirt in black voile, gathered at waist with back elastic
  3. DONE: Brown midi petticoat skirt 
  4. IN PROCESS: Blue denim Hollyburn–need to take in waistband
  5. IN PROCESS: Black floral circle skirt with attached black eyelet petticoat–need to replace waistband
  6. DONE: White midi petticoat
  7. IN PROCESS: Brown maxi petticoat skirt–needs a new waistband and closure

Tops

  1. DONE: Sweetheart t-shirt in white interlock (from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual)
  2. MAKE: Sweetheart t-shirt in black jersey
  3. DONE: Peplum top from Lady Skater in cream jersey
  4. HAVE: Black & white polka dot Bronte top
  5. HAVE: Gray & black horses print Bronte top
  6. DONE: Black tunic top from Weekender Dress pattern
  7. IN PROCESS: Black gauze top–need to add shirring to waist

Dresses

  1. HAVE: Gray floral Lady Skater
  2. HAVE: Black and gray Weekender Dress
  3. HAVE: Green and pink floral Lady Skater
  4. HAVE: Green knee-length dress with neck ties (purchased)
  5. MAKE: Green Lady Skater w/ collar and back zip
  6. MAKE: Dress in black interlock with Nevermore collar (Simplicity 1699 view B, however, may use the Lady Skater for this, too)

Outerwear

  1. MAKE: Long-sleeve bolero in gray (or black?) linen or laceweight sweater knit or lightweight sweatshirt fleece (Butterick 5232) (currently, I’m jonesing for a ballet cardigan instead, so may change this)
  2. HAVE: Olive military jacket (purchased, but need to fix closures)
  3. HAVE: Gray jersey elbow-length cardigan w/ ruffles (purchased)
  4. HAVE: Black and cream lightweight sweater knit cardigan (purchased)
  5. HAVE: Jean jacket (purchased)

Lady Skater Peplum Top

I’ve been somewhat waylaid by a historical costuming opportunity (more on that when I finish the items), but I’ve at least completed the first item for 2015’s WA Challenge: A cream-colored peplum top.

This is adapted from the Lady Skater dress pattern, following instructions here. I increased the flare using the half-inch slash-and-spread technique and I’m pretty happy with that size. The peplum is about 8.5 inches long.

skater_peplum_cream2The other obvious difference from the original dress pattern is the puff sleeves! I used this method (link goes to a PDF) to draft the puff sleeves (separating the pieces by 1/2 inch rather than 1 inch) and added a band around the bottom. The sleeve bands are a bit baggy on me, but it’s comfy this way and I don’t think it looks “wrong.” (I also liked the look of the sleeves before I added the bands–they had an angel-wing or kimono look. I still can’t decide whether I should should’ve just left them like that.)

skater_peplum_cream1Otherwise, I’d already adjusted the pattern by shortening the bodice when I made the dresses. This time, I also did a sway-back adjustment (instructions here); you can’t tell from this photo (oh well), butI swear it has actually eliminated some of the wrinkling!

skater_peplum_cream3I really love this pattern (in case you can’t tell from the fact that this is the third garment I’ve made from it). It’s easy and produces flattering and comfortable garments. I’m looking forward to making some other variations with long sleeves for the fall and winter.

By the way, since many of my makes for spring/summer call for a fairly small amount of fabric, and since I’m stocking up on solid colors in basic shades, I decided to spring for fancy-pants organic cotton. This top is made from organic cotton jersey in “natural”–it’s very soft and lovely so far. The edges curl up like crazy, unfortunately, but since I’m used to this pattern it didn’t cause me too much angst.

Spring/Summer Capsule Wardrobe Sewing Queue

Skirts

  1. MAKE: Knee-length Hollyburn in black cotton broadcloth or poplin; white lining with white eyelet ruffle (longer than overskirt); contour waistband; elastic in back of waistband
  2. MAKE: Long petticoat skirt in black lawn or voile with deep ruffle, gathered at waist with back elastic
  3. IN PROCESS: Brown midi petticoat skirt–need to shorten the skirt I have and fix waistband (add lining? add pockets?)
  4. IN PROCESS: Blue denim Hollyburn–need to take in waistband (okay, this color isn’t technically in my palette, but I’m considering it a neutral denim)
  5. IN PROCESS: Black floral circle skirt with attached black eyelet petticoat–need to replace waistband

Tops

  1. MAKE: Peplum top in black ponte with Nevermore collar (Simplicity 1699 view B)
  2. MAKE: Sweetheart t-shirt in white jersey (from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual)
  3. MAKE: Sweetheart t-shirt in black jersey (assuming this pattern works for me)
  4. DONE: Peplum top from Lady Skater in cream
  5. MAKE: Another cream or green top?
  6. HAVE: Black & white polka dot Bronte top
  7. HAVE: Gray & black horses print Bronte top
  8. IN PROCESS: Black tunic top from Weekender Dress pattern
  9. IN PROCESS: Black gauze top–need to add rows of elastic to waist

Dresses

  1. HAVE: Gray floral Lady Skater
  2. HAVE: Black and gray Weekender Dress
  3. HAVE: Green and pink floral Lady Skater
  4. HAVE: Green knee-length dress with neck ties (purchased)

Outerwear

  1. MAKE: Long-sleeved bolero in gray (or black?) linen or laceweight sweater knit or lightweight sweatshirt fleece (Butterick 5232 [out of print, sorry!])
  2. HAVE: Olive military jacket (purchased, but need to fix closures)
  3. HAVE: Gray jersey elbow-length cardigan w/ ruffles (purchased)
  4. HAVE: Black and cream lightweight sweater knit cardigan (purchased)